T-Shirt

This image is imprinted on threadless T that I really want to by.

To see shirt on people go here.






















I dont know if this new obsession with this T-Shirt has anything to do with my little surf experience today.

It was about 10 feet and 10 seconds when we went out at around 8am this morning. I hadn't gone surfing in so long I was so excited I could barely sleep last night.
I caught a couple nice medium sized waves, between hip and shoulder height. Then this rouge set came through and the intervals between waves increased. When they broke they caused a wall of white wash.
I got caught in the worse place. I could not turtle under the white wash and I could not go over the wave.
I was right underneath the lip breaking - to make this more simple. When you see a wave break it involves this churning of water up to form a peak and then it throws the water forward to hit the ocean then it becomes a frothy mass.
Well I was in the impact zone where the lip was throwing over. The water fell on me with a good measure of pressure.
Weird to say but when I looked up and saw what was about to happen, time did go in slow motion. This wave seemed like a monster.

I used my surfboard as shield over my head to take the impact. There was so much water that layered on top of me. I got pushed down so far that when I opened my eyes it was black. I felt this weight all around me swirling. I thought "wow I have not had this long without a breath before". I started swimming at what I hoped was up. The water slowly changed colors to a dark green then light green then white I could hear another wave crash, The white turned back to light green I kept pushing, pushing, swimming up till I felt the wind hit the hair on the top of my head. My hood had come off. I didnt know where my board was. Breathing was so relieving, intoxicating. I really appreciated breathing afterwards. This is something we take for granted.

The set was still going and I got shoved down three for four more times before I got to shore. I felt nauseous.

Not scared but greatly humbled.

A reminder to pay the ocean some reverence. I don't ride the waves of my own accord, the waves allow me to ride them.