Sunday

Board on Board Collision = Not Cool

Finally after weeks of waiting I get out to the break about an hour and a half out side the city.
The sun is shining. A rainbow appears above the trees.
I finally figured this break out. I had it Wired.
So wired in fact people caught on and were follwing me. Like a herd of lemmings to see where my line up spot was. I was on the money. Not too far out like those suckers waiting for just the giant waves that they probably don't know how to ride since they spend the majority of there time like sitting ducks.

Dude with a white shortboard starts paddling for a wave directly infront of me while I have just come from under the last wave ( paddling out to my spot). He doesn't know how to turn around me. I try to paddle faster to make it over the wave but to no avail.

Nose to Nose crash. With the speed of the wave. I get hurled forward over both boards. Guy gets hurled towards shore. The leashes tangle together. I tried to reach for my board but missed. We both come out a little frazzled but fine. We both asked politely if the other is ok. I look around and all the other surfers are giving him a MAJOR glare down. Several concerned men and women paddle up to me to make sure I was ok and informing me that they had witnessed a surf catastrophe.

I feel fine, I paddle out. Sit on my board and look down to this:














Suddenly I am debating swimming out of the water with my board on my head. With a chasm this deep a heavily water logged board could be in my future.
When I get out a girl follows me and tells me yet again she witnessed the event and hoped I told the guy off.
I told her
" Shit happens. It was not intentional. I don't think anyone is to blame. I am just bummed about my board. I would have rather taken some bruises and gnashes than see this happen to my baby."

I stand by my statement. Looking down at Sonny ( my boards name) I am tearing up.

Sonny has shared all my wave experiences with me.

2 comments:

  1. This is intense! I'm glad you're ok babe.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I appreciate the condolences. It is hard time.

    Btw Healing is free. Fixing this board is not. Just saying

    ReplyDelete

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