Taking it in the face.

Today there was Surf. Clean Surf, Big surf.

 ( this photo is just of Cox Bay but not of todays conditions) 

So I had a great surf ? 

When we first went out at eight the waves were coming from everywhere and the tide was extremely low. The lowest I have ever seen, I almost needed a rest break walking from the beach to the water. So we had to paddle pretty far out to get past the break which is nearly always true at Cox Bay. Then some epic sets came through. The wave was holding forever and there was only 8 or 9 people out which for this time of year is amazing. 

I was paddling for the peak of this one large betty. I turned my board and realized the line up was a few yards behind me. Justin said I was definately caught in RIP and was way out there. 

I starting paddling back which took alot of energy. Which makes sense why for the first bit I didnt  feel like I was moving at all. Then I paddled right to try and catch this big wave. I must have paddled out of the RIP then. Funny, when I started surfing I always had this intense fear of the RIP tides. Then I guess I forgot about them and got wave vision.  I wasnt freaked out at all when I was out there. It wasn't until we got out and Justin told me that he was going to paddle out and get me that I realized perhaps I was in danger. 

When I was back in the lineup I caught a nice clean wave then a bigger set came through. I believe they were the waves in charge of flooding the tide back up. These waves had purpose and I could feel it. They were tall and breaking heavy. They were breaking pretty shallow well they were sucking the water up with such force that they were making what wasnt shallow before shallow then. 

The white wash from them was thick too. I tried to Turtle instead of Duck dive mostly because I didnt have the time to think about ducking they were coming so fast. When I turtled I wasnt going deep enough which meant I was taking a beating underwater. My head took the brunt of it too. The waves were so tall you couldnt see the next wave behind it. All five waves were huge and I didn't have time to prep. It was like a big wave suprise everytime. Which  would be great if I was further out and a bit better at navigating these types of waves. 

So I got a under water beat by the first three waves then for the last two I thought I could paddle over the top. Turns out I was timing it wrong and the waves were peaking and breaking on my head. On my head and hard. I did power through the rest of my body as to not get pulled into the washer. But Damn by the fifth wave I was soo dizzy and disoriented. 

Then a new set came just as big as the last. I paniced and took the first two on the head again then thought it might be best to ride the white wash to shore till I could see straight again. It was a long ride back to shore. Then when I climbed out, I could barely walk let alone carry my board. I focused on the ground but the sand kept moving like the waves. Finally Justin came and we sat till I could walk which was only about 5 minutes or so. It was disappointing that I could'nt get it together and go back out. There were waves and I was on shore without the where with all to go catch them. 

Unfortunately I may have just used my energy paddling out of the RIP current and was just making stupid tired decisions while in the waves. 

I think I may watch a movie then nap then try again at around 5.