On This Evening Surf....

I just came from an evening surf. We(Jesse,Justin and I) went surfing at Long beach by Incinerator rock. 

The sets were okay. About one hour and half in after a few waves this HUGE set rolled like manna. Justin and I picked up the pace and paddle out further. The waves were rising one after another. I picked mine coming towards me in the distance. Beckoning me like a siren. I was in just the right spot. I look over to Justin who is about 15 feet away he isn't lining up for it. Great this one is MINE! Then as the green clear concave face of the wave appears before me I see the shape of another surfer who must have just ducked under it. In the following seconds here were my thoughts:

Where did that guy come from ? I thought it was just me and Justin out here ? That last set was pretty big though and I did get pounded on the head maybe I didnt notice the other person get in. 

HOLY SHIT THAT IS NOT PERSON. OMG THAT IS NOT A PERSON. 

THAT THING IS SO FAT. ITS A MOTHER OF A SEAL LION. I CANT BELIEVE HOW I BIG THEY ARE. IS IT CATCHING MY WAVE TOWARDS ME ????? 

* Franticing paddling to get out of the way. It literally lifted its head from inside the window of the wave poked out to look at me then turned into the wave and started CHARGING Justin.  The sea lion pushed itself through the wave, out to the belly and lifted its chest in very undeniably aggressive manner.This is happening why the waves is moving VERY VERY quickly towards me. *

GOD PLEASE DON'T LET IT CATCH THE WAVE INTO ME PLEASE PLEASE ( at this point I think I was screaming that outloud).

The last I had seen the sea lion before the wave broke it was directly infront of me. I mean I could really see it. ALLL OF IT. When the wave broke the white wash was very tall and broke my view  of the horizon or the next set of waves. I was blind to what was coming. I was facing the shore and riding the white wash in while glancing behind shoulder in Panic. 

Then I remebered that the last set of waves had hit my head pretty hard. I was dizzy perhaps I had hallucinated. I looked over and Justin was riding the same wave out as me. It was just a surfer I just got rocked too hard. I get out of the water at knee height. We were pretty far out there so it did take a while to get back to shore. I grabbed my board and looked around. Then ran to the shore. I was laughing not because I wasn't scared. I was so terrified I had to make myself feel better. I walked towards Justin and we both looked at each other not saying anything. After a few moments of trying to read what the other person saw through looking at them. He said Did you.. I finished by saying See that Fucking HUGE SEA LION. YES I t was right in front of me. He said " It charged me. It came out of no where and charged me. That has never happened before. I have surfed with sea lions before and that has never happened. Usually they pop there head out and look a you for a bit. I said "He was Huge Angry Sea Lion." 

With that we got out. Jesse came by and we told him what had just happened. Well Justin told him while I was looking out into the deep blue ocean trying to spot the fiend. He had disappeared without a trace. Honestly You couldnt see him. He came out of no where. 

I have learned something very important. I am in another food chain when I enter the ocean. I can not " Take on" a sea lion. This Sea lion was, I kid you not, the the size of a small car. 

I am not surfing close to Incinerator rock in the evening ever again. Surfing has given me thrills, moments of fear but this was not surfing this was reality. This was Wild and it was Real. Everything in me is going a mile a minute. Time does not exist. My Senses are pulsating. I can even hear the tiny little humming bird outside my deck with the windows closed. 

I can not describe how I feel all I know is that was a very close encounter. It was not fun or amusing it was terrify and fast. 

Thats how things become real not slowly over time but in flash.