A Little Surf Education.

This Post is Entirely dedicated to Answering SwanDiamondRose's comment/ query in my last post.
I started writing a comment and realized this should just be a blog post.

A little Surf history for my friends.









Question: Why would people Surf in Ireland ? or better yet Surfing in Ireland, what's the deal ?

Since 1966 release of the movie Endless Summer. Where by two young professional surfers cir cum navigate the world in search of the perfect waves while simultaneously running away from winter ( playing the hemispheres against each other). This created "The Surf Travel" industry. Which in our time is a right of passage for the dedicated surfer. A Surf pilgrimage, if you will.

This movie not only created the Top Surf Destinations of the world: Barrels in Indo, Never ending waves at J-bay South Africa or the giant man breaking wave at Pipeline Hawaii. It implanted a dream in the minds and hearts of surfers.

It is not just about surfing the perfect wave. It is now about surfing the perfect wave ALONE.
These destinations became popular.
The hardships of california surfing are localism*, line ups** and over crowded waters. Fear of getting run over by the surfer on the wave, running over people when you are on the wave or multiple people catching the same wave as you.














For our generation the problems of your homebreak are also rampant at the worlds top surf destinations.
Now what ?
Search the world for great breaks that no one knows about. Countries that people would not automatically associate with Surfing. IE: Scotland, Ireland, Iceland !!!. Guess who is a newbie on this list ? Canada: West and East coast.

Scotland:


If there is a Coast unimpeded by land masses ( islands, peninsulas etc.. ) that picks up swell ( the motion of the ocean, the force of energy that creates waves) go there and claim it for the empire of surf. Get there before anyone else does and live the dream. Surf the Perfect Wave alone.

Surfers are becoming geographers, oceanographers and Explorers.
The harder the location is to get to,the better. An ideal location should involve a hike through impenetrable jungle, bribing your way through guerrilla forces/ corrupt policemen or Braving the Frigid Cold Water.












Thanks to the invention of the wet suit and the continuing advances in wetsuit technology.

We will be surfing Antarctica in no time.



Marketing slogan for the first O'Neil wetsuit
"Its always summer on the inside"


Why surf Ireland? Because it will shock your relatives. It breaks people's comfortable notions of surfing.
Its geographical freedom.

Remember the true surfer is part of a fringe movement. In the book I am reading 'West of Jesus:Surfing, science and the origins of belief' the author talks about how before the 60's there were groups of surfers who refused to get jobs, slept on beaches and spear hunted fish for food. They were Hippies before Hippies defined themselves.

Surf Ireland now while it is still slightly against the grain.
But in a few years it will be the norm.
Keep one eye on the map and the other on Surf product development.

Hey, might as well Surf Russia.




Hopefully that answer your question.

*Localism: Locals who live and surf near the break. They feel since they wait for the perfect conditions all year they should get first pick of the waves. They feel they live they and they "own" the waves.
** Line up: The outside just before waves are breaking. The open ocean. People line up to catch waves. This is not the same as a grocery line up where by "you wait your turn". It is usually decided by your perceived surf capabilities and nepotism. The locals are the generally the judges.