Best day off

Yesterday I surfed twice in one day. Morning surf where the conditions were blown out so I mostly paddled around and duck dived. Then followed by midday  nap and helping Harri move next door. The second surf was with the group and the best technique surf of my life. 

I have spent the last week asking everyone I know that surfs to tell me how to pump up and down the line and for some reason no one could give me any pointers or worse they said condesending things like " it just comes with practice or its hard to put into words". I swear the sport of surfing is 50% riding waves and 50% keeping riding waves a secret. Harri probably being British was not informed in the latter and he told me the key is to look up the wave when you bottom turn to get it started. Its amazing how just looking somewhere can change everything. When your eyes glance up your entire body shifts its balance and follows in the direction you were looking at it. There does seem to be a bit of a push from the hips involved. 

The wave conditions were hip high but very clean. I caught three great waves. For me that was a paddle for the peak then poping up before dropping and having control of my bottom turn. I even stuck my hand out to the touch the wave as I was riding. It was a sensational feeling. This is why I moved up to Tofino to be a competent actual surfer. Now that I have met that goal everything else is going to be cherry on top.

Below is Taj Burrows. Not be clique which I obviously am but he is "my favourite surfer". I once had the cutest book call Taj Burrows teaches surfing. He was the only person who could explain duck diving to me and he told me to practice in flat water. OH Taj. 

* WARNING MUTE THE MUSIC ON THIS YOU TUBE VIDEO. Srsly its horrible play your own music to it because it does need music. Surfing videos have the worst music like psuedo candy punk with cheap guitar*